Blue-footed boobies (MH)
IN THE SPIRIT OF ED RICKETTS AND
JOHN STEINBECK: VOYAGES TO THE
SEA OF CORTEZ & BAJA CALIFORNIA
#1: February 16-28, 2017 (13 Days/12 Nights)
Carlos Gajon Bermúdez, Geoff Hammerson,
Wendy Shattil and M/V Westward’s Crew
[Southbound Itinerary: Loreto to La Paz]
#2: Feb. 28-March 10, 2017 (11 days/10 Nights)
Carlos Gajon Bermúdez, Audrey Benedict,
Wendy Shattil, and M/V Westward’s Crew
[Northbound Itinerary: Chartered]
Standing on Westward’s foredeck, we see an arc
of cloudless sky and a jagged spine of cactus-clad
mountains towering above turquoise-hued water.
Rising mirage-like out of the Pacific Ocean,
Mexico’s Baja California Peninsula stretches
south as a slender 800-mile-long cul-de-sac of
the Sonoran Desert. Along its austere eastern
shoreline, the Sea of Cortez (Gulf of California)
separates the Baja peninsula from the rest of
mainland Mexico. From Baja’s western coast, the
Pacific Ocean stretches across one-third of the
globe’s circumference before reaching the shores
of another continent.
The sense that Baja California seems a world
apart reflects its remarkable plate tectonic history
and its biological setting. Baja California sits atop
the oceanic Pacific Plate while mainland Mexico
is situated on the continental North American
Plate. Deep-seated plate movements along the
southern trajectory of the great San Andreas Fault
caused the peninsula to begin rifting northwest
in relation to mainland Mexico about 25 million
years ago. By 5 million years ago, the Pacific Ocean had flowed into the gulf-like breach
between the plates, ultimately creating the Sea
of Cortez. Episodes of intense volcanism along
the peninsula’s mountainous spine and the
resulting uplift of its eastern flanks produced the
spectacular scenery we see today and triggered
the region’s climatic transformation.
Tethered to the North American mainland by
a narrow land bridge and surrounded by Pacific
waters on three sides, Baja California is a treasure
trove of biodiversity. With the evolutionary stage
set by a million years of virtual isolation, the Sea
of Cortez’s 44 major islands and 900 smaller
islands host the largest number of endemic plant
and animal species in North America. Of the 695
species of island-dwelling vascular plants, 20
genera are endemic. These islands are also among
the world’s richest in terms of reptile diversity,
with at least 50 endemic species.
The late Jacques Cousteau, ocean explorer and
renowned conservationist, described the Sea of
Cortez as “the aquarium of the world.” Of the 891
species of fish that occur in these waters, 90 are
endemics. The region also contains 39% of the
world’s total number of marine mammal species
and one-third of the world’s cetacean species. In
fact, many biologists refer to the Sea of Cortez
and its islands as the “Mexican Galapagos.”
In 2005, with tourism pressures, overfishing, and
other environmental threats taking a drastic toll,
UNESCO and the Mexican government protected
much of the Sea of Cortez and nearly 50% of Baja
California Sur as a World Heritage Site.
Southbound & Northbound Itineraries
Southbound expeditions to Baja California begin
in Loreto, a picturesque town located on Baja’s
eastern shore, and end in the city of La Paz.
Northbound voyages begin in La Paz and end at
Loreto. Sea conditions permitting, both voyages
essentially visit the same places but in reverse
order. The expeditions begin with a trip by van
across the peninsula’s jagged spine to either
Magdalena Bay or Laguna San Ignacio, the
sheltered lagoons on Baja’s west coast where
migratory gray whales gather in large numbers
each winter to give birth and breed. Whether our
base is a delightful small hotel or a safari-style
tented camp, our whale watch guides will take us
in small open boats (pangas) to spend several
hours both in the morning and the afternoon
drifting quietly in the lagoon in the midst of gray
whale mothers and their calves. The experience is
magical because the whales seem to be as curious
about us as we are of them. Some whale mothers
may even bring their calves right up to the boats.
With memories of gray whales tucked away in
our hearts and minds, we return to the Westward
and begin our voyage in the Sea of Cortez.
Why voyage “In the Spirit of Ed Ricketts and
John Steinbeck?” Legendary marine biologist Ed
Ricketts is known for his pioneering studies of
marine ecology along the Pacific coastline of
North America. His famous book Between Pacific
Tides, first published in 1939, remains the classic
reference for the Pacific intertidal zone. In the
spring of 1940, Ed Ricketts and his ocean-loving
friend, novelist John Steinbeck, embarked on a
4,000-mile expedition aboard the Western Flyer, a
sturdy 76-foot purse seiner. Their voyage would
take them from California’s Monterey Bay south
aroundBaja California and into the Sea of Cortez.
Ricketts and Steinbeck shared a profound
curiosity and passion for understanding the
marine world. They believed that their 6-week
collecting trip in the Sea of Cortez would open a
window on this little known region as wide and
horizonless as Charles Darwin’s explorations had
aboard the Beagle. Their expedition resulted in
two books—Sea of Cortez: A Leisurely Journal
of Travel and Research (1941), which included
Ricketts’ collection catalog, and The Log from the
Sea of Cortez (1951), Steinbeck’s shorter version
published following Ricketts’ tragic death in
1948. John Steinbeck often described their
expedition as “bright with sun and wet with sea
water.” We follow happily in their wake ...
Westward’s naturalist, sea kayak and snorkeling
guide, Carlos Gajon, is a La Paz native and leads
our naturalist team in exploring this desert and
marine wilderness. Once aboard Westward,
we’ll be watching for red-billed tropicbirds and
elegant terns swooping over the water and brown
pelicans fishing the turquoise shallows. Trips
ashore introduce us to the Sonoran desert biome
and the plants and animals adapted for life here.
You’ll see giant cardón cacti towering over a
prickly understory of shrubs and desert-adapted
wildflowers. Desert birds include white-winged
doves, pyrrhuloxias, Gila woodpeckers, and the
endemic Xantu’s hummingbird. We’ll use sea
kayaks to explore the labyrinth of mangroves in
San Jose’s expansive lagoon, ever-watchful for
yellow-crowned night herons, white ibis, and
mangrove warblers. At sea, we’ll hope to see
foraging pairs of Craveri’s murrelet, the tiniest of
murrelets, both blue-footed and brown boobies,
Heermann’s gulls, and magnificent frigatebirds.
Island hopping, we’ll drift quietly through the
nutrient-rich waters of the “blue triangle,” where
we hope to spot both blue and sperm whales as
they congregate to feed on the bounty of plankton
and squid. We’ll learn how the infamous El Niño
and La Niña cycles in the Pacific influence the
abundance of marine life and drive the storm
systems that deliver nurturing moisture to the
Baja peninsula and the islands of the Sea of
Cortez. The aerial displays of mobula rays never
fail to amaze and, if we are lucky, long-beaked
common dolphins may converge at our bow wave.
At Los Islotes we’ll observe the raucous action
at a haulout of California sea lions. Anchoring
off Isla Partida and Caleta Cardonal, we’ll wander
the island’s mangrove-fringed shore and enjoy a
cross-island hike. At Isla Espiritu Santo, we’ll
kayak the crystalline waters and spend time
photographing a spectacular colony of magnificent
frigatebirds—a treat for all the senses. But
wherever our final anchorage finds us, we’ll
celebrate and savor the highlights of our trip
over another fabulous dinner, raising our glasses
to yet another Baja sunset and shared adventures
in a desert paradise.
Price: $6,895. (includes a $1,000 deposit)
Group Size: 8 (+ 2 leaders) Trip Rating: 2-3
Trip #1 includes: 3 nights’ hotel accommodations
(including 2/16 at the Westin Airport Hotel near
LAX), and the Alaska Airlines flight from LAX to
Loreto on 2/17.
Trip #2 includes: 3 nights’ hotel accommodations
(La Paz, Magdalena Bay, and Loreto).
All trips include: van transportation on the
peninsula, all meals ashore, a week’s nights and
all meals aboard Westward, all wine and beer, 2
Cloud Ridge naturalist leaders, Westward’s 4-
person crew, complete sea kayak outfitting and
instruction, gratuities throughout, and a copy of
the photo book of our voyage.The price quoted is
per person based on double occupancy. Single
accommodations are unavailable for this trip.
Does not include roundtrip airfare to Baja from
your home airport (except where air segments are
noted in the trip description) or travel insurance.
|