A NATURALIST’S VOYAGE TO
SOUTHEAST ALASKA’S WILD COAST
July 20-July 29, 2017 10 Days/9 Nights
Audrey Benedict, Geoff Hammerson,
Wendy
Shattil and the M/V Westward Crew
(Cruise Itinerary: Sitka to Juneau)
Few places in North America rival the scenic
beauty and wildlife diversity of Southeast Alaska.
Join us for an all-new voyage between Sitka and
Juneau aboard the M/V Westward—our “classroom
afloat.” We’ve been exploring these waters
with Pacific Catalyst since 1996 and we know
you’ll agree that there is no finer way to experience
Southeast Alaska. Unlike big cruise ships,
Westward is trim enough to explore the narrowest
of fjords, slipping quietly past electric blue icebergs,
and to wander amidst the rocky islands on
the outer coast. The use of sea kayaks allows us
a special seal’s-eye view of the marine world.
Beginning sea kayakers will find this an ideal
setting in which to learn.
We begin our adventure in Sitka, which sits in
the shadow of Mount Edgecumbe, a volcano
named by Captain Cook in 1778. Sitka would
eventually become the political and cultural hub
of Russian adventurism in Alaska and the North
Pacific during the 19th century. First settled by
pre-Tlingit people about 10,000 years ago, Sitka
offers a unique window into Tlingit history and
their struggle to preserve cultural identity in the
face of a burgeoning European and American
presence. Visits to the Totem Trail National
Historical Park and the Sheldon Jackson Museum
reveal the powerful cultural and artistic influences
that shaped the indigenous lifeway.
The siren call of the wild Pacific edge beckons
and we board Westward, casting off for Krestof
Sound. This will be the first of several anchorages
as we island-hop our way northeast to Sergius
Narrows and into Peril Strait. In Peril Strait,
anchoring in Hanus Bay, we’ll hike to Lake Eva
and then enjoy a paddle in our quiet cove. The
junction of Peril Strait and Chatham Strait is
especially rich in forage fish, attracting a diversity
of marine mammals and seabirds. If we are lucky,
we may see the spectacular bouts of synchronized
lunge-feeding behavior that occurs when groups
of humpbacks work cooperatively to entrap
schools of small fish or krill by creating a nearsurface
“bubble net.” With this bubble net in
place, the humpbacks lunge upwards with their
baleen-rimmed mouths agape, engulfing hundreds
of small prey fish in one fluid motion.
Brown bear (MH) Our Southeast Alaska voyages offer myriad
photographic and natural history opportunities.
Although wildlife sightings are unpredictable,
we should see both brown and black bears
visiting their traditional salmon spawning
streams, raucous groups of Steller sea lions at
their haul-outs, harbor seals and their pups, bald
eagles, and fascinating seabirds, such as the
marbled murrelet, pigeon guillemot, and tufted
puffin. Bear watching is always a highlight of any
trip and we’ll anchor in an estuary system that
supports a large population of brown bears,
spending several hours ashore following paths
created by generations of bears. We’ll learn to
identify their day beds, scratching trees, lookouts,
and then hike to a fish ladder that allows returning
salmon access to their natal streams and where
we’ll hope to see large numbers of feasting bears.
Are there really salmon in the trees? The answer
is a coevolutionary story—and bears and many
other salmon-loving species play a crucial role in
the rich cycle of life that links the forest with the
sea. To see thousands of spawning salmon, tail to
tail in the swaying current and making their final
journey is a soul-stirring experience. We’ll “talk
salmon,” and learn why the Alaska wild salmon
fishery has earned a reputation as one of the
most carefully managed and environmentally
conscientious fisheries in the world.
Several cultural opportunities on this voyage
offer glimpses of how people have adapted to the
challenges of life in a coastal wilderness. We’ll
visit the village of Tenakee Springs, a unique
community of homesteaders and artists drawn
to this remote spot by its beauty and mineral
hot springs. Crossing Chatham Strait to Admiralty
Island, we’ll visit the Tlingit village of Angoon.
There a Tlingit elder will welcome us and
introduce us to local carvers who’ll show us their
current projects. The traditional Tlingit stories our
host shares provides a window into the many
ways that their lives are shaped by forest and sea.
Listening to the Tlingit language you can hear the
music of water and ice—and the ever-present
spirit voice of Raven.
Rounding the southern tip of Admiralty Island,
we head up Stephens Passage and our much
anticipated rendezvous with the Dawes Glacier, a
magnificent tidewater glacier. En route, crossing
the terminal moraine that guards the entrance to
Endicott Arm, we are quickly immersed in the
magical world of a glacial fjord. At our Ford’s
Terror anchorage, the glacially-etched bedrock
walls of the fjord resemble a flooded Yosemite.
To kayak here is to be christened into a world of
indescribable beauty. Arriving at the towering
face of the Dawes Glacier is a breathtaking
experience but also brings into sharp focus the
realities of what is at risk as we stand at the
threshold of global warming.We’ll discuss how
changes in prevailing ocean currents and water
temperature are affecting the populations of small
forage fish that marine mammals and seabirds
depend on for food. We’ll create a photo book
based on our shared experiences that captures
the essence of Southeast Alaska—as well as the
environmental challenges looming on the horizon.
Sea otters (MH)
Price: $6,550 (includes a $1,000 deposit)
Group Size: 12 Trip Rating: 2-3
Price includes: 1 night’s lodging in Sitka (7/20)
and 1 night’s lodging in Juneau (7/28), 8 days/7
nights aboard the M/V Westward, all meals and
beverages (wine/beer included) aboard and
onshore, the services of our 3 naturalist leaders,
the Westward’s 4-person crew, full sea kayak
outfitting and instruction, gratuities to the crew,
boat/hotel transfers, and a copy of the trip’s photo
book.
The price quoted is per person based on
double occupancy; single accommodations are
unavailable on this trip. Does not include roundtrip
airfare from your point of departure to Sitka
on 7/20 or your return from Juneau on 7/29.
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